Cuban street scene
Destination: Cuba
Movie: The Buena Vista Social Club,(1998) Director Wim Wenders. Winner of Best Documentary Feature, Academy Award.
Although I blather on here about books and movies that inspire people to travel to places, I can point to a relatively few that have actually lit a fire in me–given me an obsession. Yes, there have been books and movies that made me want to go somewhere, but The Buena Vista Social Club was not just a movie, it was an experience.
It captured the fading glory of Havana, the vivacity of the people, the sad decline of a city that once rivaled Las Vegas or Atlantic City as the glamorous vacation spot for Americans who wanted to gamble, drink and find women. (It is said that John F. Kennedy particularly appreciated the latter benefit.)
The story started when musician Ry Cooder visited Havana, and curious about Cuban music, began asking who wrote this–who made it famous–are they still alive? One by one he discovered one-time stars of the Cuban music world, some of whom had not performed for a decade or more.
Rubén Gonzáles, an amazing pianist born in 1919, had disappeared from view . When Cooder sent someone to see Gonzales, he reluctantly came to the studio, but as soon as he saw a piano, he was hooked. Everyone discovered that his arthritis, which slowed his walking, was not the reason he had not been playing. Gonzales had not owned a piano for ten years. In the narrative with the film’s DVD Wim Wenders says that anywhere he saw a piano, Gonzales would sit down and start playing. “I never saw a musician with such love for his instrument.” Gonzales died in 2003 at 84.
The baby-faced Ibrahim Ferrar, was working as a shoe shine “boy” when the group located him and he came into the studio to sing some of the songs he had made famous. His impish sense of humor and delight in performing makes him a natural leader. He died in 2005 at age 78.
Another musician, dapper and sexy at 90, in his tropical suit and panama hat Compay Segundo, says on camera that he has five children and is working on his sixth. Off camera, director Wenders said the challenge was juggling his Segundo’s life with a wife and a mistress–and perhaps another girlfriend on the side. Segundo died in 2003 at age 95.
In The Buena Vista Social Club, Wenders lets each of these and several other of the band members gathered by Ry Cooder, tell the story of their life. It is a story of a musicians life, with no overt commentary on politics.
Wenders let the camera do the talking, as he shoots in darkened streets with very few streetlights, a guitar factory where few guitars are made any more, the grand old casino building, with the chandeliers and gilt mirrors and bright colors of yesterday visible beneath the dust and peeling plaster of today. What was once a rich man’s playground now serves children as a gymnasium, and the young ballerinas clustered around the piano as Reuben Gonzales played.
Cuban Taxi
In the commentary, Wenders mentions the fact that the best studio they could find had problems with electricity outages and water pouring in through the ceiling when it rained. And everywhere the narrow streets are lined with vintage American cars, still held together with who-knows-what mechanical ingenuity.
The musicians were nearly unknown in the United States until Ry Cooder determinedly gathered them together.
During the early years of the Revolution, Cuban musicians frequently performed in eastern European countries, but their dream was to go to Carnegie Hall. Seeing them wander the streets of New York City, so blinding with lights, was extremely touching. It was telling that two of them studied figurines in a shop window and recognized Louis Armstrong, but could not place Marilyn Monroe or John F. Kennedy. You could almost see the curtain between the two countries descending in the 1960′s.
Their dream comes true and bits of the performances from Amsterdam and from New York City are included in the film. The film ends back in Havana, where a banner in front of a wrecked building says “The Revolution is Eternal”. And beside crumbling cement walks beside the beautiful seashore, and electricity so undependable that people don’t trust refrigerators, the banner proclaims, “We Believe in Dreams.”
Ken and I were thrilled to be able to see Rubén Gonzáles, Ibrahim Ferrar and Compay Segundo, along with some of the others in person at a concert at the University of Arizona. We bought two recordings, and the next year when a few members of the band returned, we went again to hear them.We are so grateful to Ry Cooder and Wim Wenders for bringing these musicians to our attention.
Now the United States is returning to cautious permission of limited tourism to Cuba,[updated reference Jan 2012 about a Smithsonian tour] that had been curtailed for a few years. Of course, people have been going anyway one way or another. Matador has some good articles about Cuba, including this “How To” article by Julie Schweitert. Like the musicians, (and this ballet troupe) I don’t want to talk about politics, I just want to see this beautiful country and hear more of its music.
The images here are from Flickr, used with a Creative Commons license. Please click on the image to learn about the photographer.
Have you been to Cuba? Have you been waiting for America to make it legal? I realize that this can be a sensitive subject for some people. Please keep the conversation civil.
PDF Tags: Academy Award, BlogSherpa, Buena Vista Social Club, Cuba, Havana, John F. Kennedy, Movie, Ry Cooder, Wim Wenders
Twitter: WanderingEds
says:
i am not sure i can go (disability access) but i have always wanted to. i LOVE the BVSC music!!
jessiev would like you to read..Bucket Listing Mt Mera
Fabulous article Vera – This film was indeed an experience and not just a movie – It stays with you – creates new passions for music and for life. Inspires us to want to learn, see, hear and live more. The soundtrack is always handy at the top of my CD pile. How lucky you are to have seen these wonderful musicians perform. Yes, we will go to Cuba soon.
Twitter: gomarwrites
says:
It’s weird. I’ve never really wanted to go to Cuba, I think because like everyone else, I grew up thinking there wasn’t a possibility of it! This film sounds fascinating.I love documentaries that aren’t just about one thing, and do it well.
Margo would like you to read..Belle Views- A Treasure Hunt in Helsinki
Once I saw The Buena Vista Social Club and fell in love! And a friend of mine toured Cuba as part of the Hemmingway Center (based in Idaho)…and had nothing but great reports! Go go go!
An interesting read on Cuba is Jonathan Kozal’s “Children of the Revolution.” He follows Cuba’s literacy campaign taking the population from a very low rate to nearly 100% literate. It is an interesting journey.-r
An interesting note on the BVSC. Caught an interview–maybe it was in the concert film – that most of the muscicans (save Ibrahim Ferrar) were performing and doing okay in Cuba prior to the film. The film sort of implied that they were all living in dire conditions and no longer playing—and that was misleading. Still beautiful music and a great place! -r
Twitter: pen4hire
says:
I don’t think the film implied anything as a blanket statement about everyone. Ibrahim Ferrar and Ruben Gonzales told their own stories–and as I said, Ruben had not performed for ten years. The point was that those that were playing were playing in small clubs, a far cry from their previous national and international fame, and this effort by Ry Cooder brought them together and took them to Carnegie Hall. After the records were cut and the concert in NYC, they split into many groups, but for one glorious moment the best of 50s/60s Cuban music was all together in the same room.
Twitter: tweets2go
says:
I have wanted to go to Cuba for years. I now have the opp to go with a humanitarian group, but it’s too expensive. Darn! It’s not only the music, but the cars, the dance, and the art.
Twitter: pen4hire
says:
I’m happy to hear that many of you agree with me that we can want to visit Cuba and talk about its arts without getting all political about it.
Oh, Rosemary, you MUST sell some articles to finance the trip. What a great opportunity.
Margo, as you must have gathered from other comments here, you watch that film at your own risk–because it will make you want to go.
And believe me, you can’t listen to that music without smiling.
Vera-
So thrilled you want to go to Cuba; it is an incredible country. My husband is from there and his family still lives there, so I go frequently.
The media haven’t done such a good job of explaining the proposed change in the current travel ban, which would really only restore the travel “privileges” that were already in place before the Bush administration. Under the current proposal, only people traveling with an authorized provider under the auspices of academic, cultural, or a few other purposes will be “allowed” to go.
The US government does a pretty good job of making the law (as it’s written, at least) unnecessarily convoluted, but technically it’s not illegal for Americans to travel to Cuba; it’s illegal for them to spend money there under US laws.
Anyhow… hope you can go; it is fabulous! And a few other films I’d love to recommend because I think you’d enjoy them: Cuba Mia (about an all female orchestra in Havana); Yank Tanks (about the ingenuity required to maintain the old American cars); and La Tropical (more about Cuban music and dance).
Twitter: pen4hire
says:
Julie: Thanks so much for the additional movie suggestions. I am also reading a book by Margaret Randal, who lived in Cuba during the Revolution. It is controversial, however paints a good (if sometimes a bit prejudiced) picture of life in Cuba when Americans were getting no news from there. I realize that the present changes that are proposed only restore prior rights, however, I also read that there are Congressmen proposing even less restrictive laws governing travel to Cuba. I think that is probably inevitable.
A friend of mine (who also loves this film) spent weeks in Cuba a few years ago and remains quite enamored. If you go with an open mind, step outside the dollars-only resorts and make an effort to experience the locals’ Cuba, it can be an unforgettable trip.
Two other films with glorious images of Havana are BEFORE NIGHT FALLS (heartbreaking and v political, but shot by painter Julian Schnabel) and AL OTRO LADO, a three-episode film with one segment set in Cuba. Neither is perfect as a film, but I found both well worth the time.
UA Presents is bringing over the Septeto Nacional de Cuba early next year. Don’t know much about this group yet, but I’m definitely checking it out online.
Twitter: PazsNYMinute
says:
I love the documentary. And when the musicians came to perform in NY, I went to see them. LOVED it!
I know a couple of people who have visited (including my mom) and they all had good experiences there. I’ve never been there before. My closest experience is the Cuban restaurant in my neighborhood.
Paz
Twitter: FrugalKiwi
says:
Cuban music, Cuban food, both amazing. I’d love to go. Maybe when I have my NZ citizenship I will.
Frugal Kiwi would like you to read..DIY Clean Green Oven Cleaner
Twitter: chezsven
says:
Somehow we missed this film. It came out the year we moved from France to the USA. Maye that’s why. Will rent it pronto. Thanks for the tip!
Twitter: colleeninca
says:
Like many others here, I was totally enamored with the music and the musicians of this film! I’ve watched the documentary several times, and have given the soundtrack as a gift many times. It definitely inspired a “I want to go to Cuba!” feeling … FYI, singer Omara Portuondo is touring in the US this fall, and has a new CD coming out in September. http://www.omaraportuondo.com